San Francisco!

I made it to San Francisco yesterday to Liz and Paul place. Liz is my wife's niece. They picked me up in downtown San Francisco but actually live in Oakland, across the Bay Bridge, with their 3 kids. I've been feeling tired the last few days. Yesterday started well and quietly, but getting into San Francisco was more eventful. First, the last ~20miles was wicked, almost like torture: never ending hills over cliffs under 36-37C weather. The view was breathtaking but beauty had its price, and my legs did not feel like paying it.

On the very last stretch before the Golden Gate bridge, I also got stopped by a police car that forced me to pull over. I wasn't supposed to ride on the freeway. The #1 and the #101 had merged, and become a freeway with heavy, heavy traffic. After a bit of explaining, he finally called a pickup truck to take me to the bridge a few kms away. Ridding in town, finding a pay phone and a well known, easy to find place for Paul to pick me up was also uneasy.

I'm really happy to be in the San Francisco area. I was here only once before in 1989, and kept really great memories. Today, I'm resting while taking care of laundry, paying the bills, updating the blog and cleaning Surly. I'm told that it is probably their hottest day of the year (97F).

I've ordered a new tent. I was hoping to see it before ordering but it seems no store keeps it in stock.

Tomorrow, I'll go visit San Francisco.

New pictures from California. I'm not taking as many pictures as I used to. Something I need to correct on the next stretch between San Francisco and San Diego.

18 août 2010, Big Lagoon County Park, CA (137km)

Journée grise et froide. Je n'ai pas laissé la 101 et me suis concentré sur la distance aujourd'hui. Chaque fois que j'aperçois une affiche qui indique la distance jusqu'à San Francisco, je crois que j'accélère inconsciemment.

Ce soir, le camping est plus primitif. Pas de RVs, de vrais ours et j'y suis le seul cycliste. La plupart des cyclistes qui voyage la côte ouest des USA lisent le même livre, visitent et campent aux mêmes endroits, etc. Ça crée des ghettos de cyclistes dans certains state parks. Je suis content d'être sortie du moule et d'être avec du vrai monde plutôt que d'avoir des conversations souvent superficielles avec d'autres cyclistes.

19 août 2010, Redcrest, CA (122km)

Ce soir, une 1ere inusitée: je dors dans un sauna. Je cherchais un petit coin tranquille pour monter ma tente, après m'être fait demander $30 dans un camping privé, quand j'ai aperçu un vieux monsieur qui sortait des choses de son auto. Je lui ai demandé si je pouvais m'installer sur le gazon à coté de sa maison. Après avoir bavardé un moment, il m'a demandé si je ne préfererais pas dormir dans son sauna à l'arrière. Evidemment, ça sent le bon cèdre. Très approprié - on est entourré de grand cèdres rouges.

Demain, grosse journée de côtes dont une de près de 2000". Je m'inquiète pcq le genou n'a pas bien été aujourd'hui, lendemain d'une autre journée de côtes. J'utilise le voltaren et des aleves, et prie le ciel.

20 août 2010, near Westport, CA (124km)

The sauna ended being great for another reason. It had no window so I slept almost 12hrs. I was feeling good for my big day of climbing, and for a 1st time since Seattle, I wasn't cold. The sun was out and the thermometer actually went up to 35C. I even thought I would be able to dry some things at the end of the day. Life was a blast until I started going down on the other side of the big 2000" hill on the #1 towards the sea ~ 15h00. That other side was like a completely different country: 12C, foggy and freezing.

Tonight, no shower for a 2nd day but only $3 for the site. Only couscous and red pesto for supper. I was completely dry when I got to this campground on top of a cliff over the Pacific ocean but with no services and no drinking water. My neighbors on the left side gave me 3 bottles of water while my Australian neighbor on the other side gave me a couple bottles of beer, and provided interesting conversations while eating. One can always count on the Australians.

I'm only 180 miles from San Francisco. I'd like to get there in a couple days but we'll have to see. It's likely to be hard to get going tomorrow morning. The west coast here is a wet (and cold) coast.

21 août 2010, Manchester, CA (102km)

Short day. I got to the campground early. I was able to go to town to buy food for a decent supper: corn, tortellinis with red pesto, prosciutto, milk and fruits.

It was really hard to get going this morning. Freezing (10C) with the usual fog and mist.

Tonight, I'm alone and feel lonely in this desolated campground.

22 août 2010, Bodega Bay, CA (113km)

At last, a nice, warm day when one did not freeze. Most of the day, the view was spectacular on the #1 along the coast. The road is very narrow and winding, with a lot of traffic on this sunny Sunday where everyone seems to be out. No major hills yet a lot of climbing again (~1500m). The story on this road repeated itself countless times: a curve, down, down, down into a ravine, a huge curve where you almost have to come to a stop to take it, then up, up, up, and finally, another curve, and up some more.

I had my 1st shower in days but got here without much food. I'm now obsessed with the weight of food. Supper consisted of a bit of couscous, raisins and cashews. After supper, I realized I was only ~1 mile from the next town, Bodega Bay. I decided to walk there and, only then, fully realized how narrow and scary this road is, unless one is driving. It's basically two narrow lanes, no shoulder, and thick vegetation on each side that seems to also want to get on the road. Anyway, I made it to a Mexican restaurant in one piece where I had ceviche and BBQ oysters. The oysters were bigger than any I've seen. I had to slice them into 4-5 pieces. I've also learned that la pequeña botella de salsa roja de Yucatan es muy, muy picante. I ate (and sweated) happily and enjoyed everything. 

23 août 2010, Oakland, CA (117km)

A few days of rest await me!!!